“高级定制”的秘密世界

  • TracyJeune
  • 45分钟
  • PROGRAMDESCRIPTION  Thisfilmuncovers… PROGRAMDESCRIPTION  Thisfilmuncoverstheanachronisticandsurprisingfairytaleworldofhautecouturethroughitsplayerspastandpresent,featuringrarearchivefromtheBBCvaults.  MargyKinmonthtakesajourneyfromParistoNewYorkandCaliforniatomeetbothdesignersandcustomersinthismuchtalkedaboutbutlittleexplainedpocketofthefashionindustry.Hautecouture’straditionalAmericancustomersaregettingoldanddyingoffnowandfewerwealthyyoungwomenaretakingtheirplacetoensureitssurvival.Shediscovershowmuchhaschangedandsurprisinglyhowmuchhasstayedthesameinthisstoryofdecadentdecline.  SinceitsheydayafterWW2thenumberoffashionhousesshowinghautecoutureinParishasfallenfromoverahundredtobarelyadozentoday.MargyKinmonthgoesbehindthescenesatthehautecouturegiantChanelasitpreparesfortheJanuaryshowsinwhichitsspring/summercollectionislaunched.WearegivenarareinterviewandglimpseofthefamousKarlLagerfeldofChanelatworkdrawinginhisstudio.Wefollowthemakingandcomplicatedconstructionofonedresstofullyunderstandwhat“handmadeinParis”reallymeans.MargyinterviewsJohnGalliano,Dior’sdesigner,veteranItaliandesignerValentinoandFrenchfavouriteChristianLacroix.Wearetreatedtovintagearchiveofearlyhautecoutureshows.  ThefilmfollowskeyhautecouturecustomersastheyvisitParistoseetheshowsandshopfordressesthatcancostupto100,000dollarseach.Kinmonthaskswhoarethesewomenandwhyaretheypreparedtospendsomuchmoneyononedress?Therearestrictunwrittenrulesforbelongingtothisexclusiveshoppingclub.Whatarethey?Whyisitallsohushhush?  WevisitkeenhautecoutureaficionadoBetsyBloomingdaleinLosAngelesandseeherlargecollectionofhautecouture.Wemeetoneoftheoldestmulti-millionairecollectorsinNewYorkCity-CarolPetriewhoseweddingdresswasmadebyChristianDiorhimselfinthelate1940’s.WeseeU.SdesignerRalphRucci’scollectioninNewYork.HeisoneofthefewforeignersallowedtoshowhautecoutureinParis.  Texanoilandgastycoon’swifeBeccaCasonThrash,SusanGutfreund–wifeofthe80’sbonddealerJohnGutfreundandDaphneGuinness,aBritwithapassionforhautecoutureareallinterviewed.TheymingleonthefrontrowsofthecatwalkshowsalongsidecelebritiessuchasVictoriaBeckham.InsiderBaronessHelenedeLudinghausen,whowasfor31yearsthedirectriceofYvesSaintLaurent,spillsthebeansaboutthesubjectnooneevermentions–howmuchthisfrockscost.  Ishautecouturenowanartform?Thecustomersallthinkso.

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